There is this incredible rush I get when you drop in on a wave that is followed by an extreme amount of focus where I don’t think about anything else at that moment.
Having to concentrate 100% on every little foot movement so I don’t fall and in doing so, I feel some kind of euphoria that is as addicting as anything. It is scary and fun and intimidating all at the same time. I learned to push my boundaries surfing and learned what I’m really capable of and there is something very pure about it.
That is usually what I say when someone asks me why do I surf. I spent the last couple of months living in Canggu. Canggu is a smaller surfy town located on the southern part of Bali. Not as touristy as others, which was why I liked it in the first place. I came here for a week, that was my original plan – and I stayed for 3 months. Ha, it’s where life takes you sometimes. But trust me, it is a very easy place to get stuck.
Besides surfing, there was always fun to go to Pretty Poison or Deus Temple! My two favorite bars to go dancing. In between that, lots of scooter rides, Sand Bar for the sunset and Old Mans for the tacos – it was a great combination of hanging out with some awesome people, filming a lot and eating incredibly good food!
And at the end, I did feel a bit, like being the part of the local community.
And that’s what traveling is all about for me. Sure I love to see the interesting temples and sacred waterfalls, but hey – no travel guide ever is going to tell you how to live like a local at the specific place.
Canggu has shaped another side of me, that I yet didn’t know it existed. It was one of the places, like Atlin or Whistler. It has grown on me with the positive, vibrant energy of the island, kindness of the locals and smiles for days from the daily surf sessions. I sure Am missing our little surfy town, but other adventures are calling, first a Christmas in Argentina and then heading back to Whistler for the winter season.
Excited? Beyond! But I know that eventually, I will head back to Canggu. And when I do, I know that I’ll get that fuzzy feeling of being home again.
