It’s been a minute since I sat down to write. I opened my program where I usually write and edit these blog posts a couple of times and… nothing. No words came out. My days have been filled with running around, biking trails of Squamish and climbing. It has been so nice, getting back to my old routine and enjoying the good old BC life. But I couldn’t help but wonder about surfing. The last year, I’ve been to some crazy places to catch waves. Indonesia, Denmark, Portugal… daily videos, friends’ posts, my friends sending me pictures from Bali… I had been eager to get back to the water for a while. And ready to make it happen. The last time I was in Tofino was in August 2018, with my brother, right before my flight to Bali.
I never get enough of this coastal hippie town and despite the cold water and ongoing bad weather, I actually love it here. At some point, I had to make a decision to come back to Tofino and a week after I was hitting the road with my friend Connor. And a couple of British hitchhikers we found along the way. We found ourselves waking up before dawn and watching the light pour over the cloudy sky, making the most of golden magic that happens in these waves, surrounded by the coastal rain forest.
I arrived at the beach with no expectations. The second we got out to the beach my eyes widened with delight and I could smell the air. Chilled – fresh – lust. Without any extra movement, I took a moment to really engage in my senses. The first day opened up to these perfect waist-height peelers. In the water, I started to recognize some of the locals from last year. We share hours in the surf, peppered with life stories amongst an air of strange familiarity. Empty waves and mysterious west coast rain forest really sets the stage for this surf trip.
This was a great chance for me to explore where I am with myself and my surfing, rekindle an ancient instinct of natural living, to surf the seas of unknown territory and draw inspiration from the limitless possibility of the open road. I do feel my mind opening up to a very humble state of being.
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Surfing gives me something no other sport does. It is a feeling of complete freedom and surrender at the same time. Not a common combination. Acknowledging that the ocean has all the power and instead of trying to control it and bend it in our own way, like us humans tend to do with everything else, I completely surrender and let go of any thoughts of control. I allow myself to be 100% present and at the moment, my mind is not wandering around, I’m not thinking about where I’ll sleep or what my next meal will be.
“I’m present, I’m here.” is the only thought that crosses my mind. As I glide down the wave on my 9’6 log, I don’t think about the size of the wave, or how fast I’m going, or who’s watching! But rather just taking it all in, right there. Allowing myself to feel. I think our generation has built up this resilience against feelings. Like feelings are something bad or embarrassing, that we shouldn’t feel or even show that we do.
Gliding down the wave definitely makes me feel. I feel butterflies in my stomach and my drive capacity is at its maximum. Every idea that has crossed my mind, at that moment is possible and for some reason it makes sense. I feel compassion, for the nature around me, wildlife. And people. I want to do more when I’m out of the water, help others more. Get young girls in the ocean so they can experience what I’m feeling. Help raising awareness of plastic pollution and how that affects our planet. The one thing that I know, is by being close to nature in a moving state like surfing, which makes us feel that we are actually a part of it. It’s not people and this planet. But rather altogether, united as one.
At this opportunity, I’d like to share two art pieces of Geoff McFetrige, a cool abstract artist who puts things in the place, exactly where they are. And also, our new favorite radio show. Ten songs and a bottle of Red. Recorded and commented by my friend Dunni, this is hands down something I always love to listen to. Humor, amazing tunes, and Dunni, slowly getting drunk. What else?
So, going back to my question… how do you describe the indescribable? You don’t. I don’t think you should. Is there a rule that everything that happens, should be described, defined, put onto paper and published? Some things are better left unsaid. I don’t remember who said that but they were right. I’m finding a good balance between publishing certain things on social media and keeping my adventures only for me, for example. For someone who is making a living out of digital marketing, I still have moments where I have to remind myself where the line is. Social media is an amazing tool but it’s almost too easy to overuse it in a wrong way. I understand that when it comes to local breaks, ski or bike trails, good spots to eat and so on.
As I’m finishing up this article, at the Rhino cafe in Tofino a song by Dope Lemon comes in on the radio and another thought emerges. Nostalgic bittersweet memories rise up from my ski bum days in Whistler. The song from Dope Lemon would usually come up the morning after the party when it was time to clean up the mess from last night and smells of eggs and bagels would fill the house.
It’s funny how our mind wanders mindlessly sometimes. I’ve been reading a lot about daydreaming and how important it is, for our humankind. This was very all-over-the-place-piece but it’s nice to have those every once in a while.
If you are taking a vacation soon, I’d like to invite you to take advantage of this -65$ off Airbnb discount for your next trip! Enjoy it for me as well.
☽ Follow me on Instagram – @alenkaamali – to see more of my adventures ☽
More about Alenka
My name is Alenka and I’m a Squamish based photographer. I love shooting nature, sports, sports in nature… underwater shots, adventures in the mountains and days on snow! I’m stoked. Very simply put, I am a stoked girl, ready to get up at 2 in the morning and hike for sunrise, ready to go to the airport and take a random flight… I’m stoked on living and I love what I do for work.
Photography, web design and digital marketing have been things I’m proud to call my job! Very flexible, lots of traveling and even more adventures than when I was a kid. Here, on my website I share tips on photography, spreading awareness about the zero-waste lifestyle and sustainability and crazy stories from my travels. Welcome.
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